Sunday, August 26, 2012

Tra Vinh’s Khmer connection

The Mekong Delta province is a green, tranquil place with old pagodas and a culture that is an amalgam of Vietnamese and Khmer


Cay He (garlic chives) Pagoda in Tieu Can Commune, the southern province of Tra Vinh. The province boasts more than 140 pagodas built in old Khmer architecture styles.


Tra Vinh Province, situated 200 kilometers from Ho Chi Minh City, is almost like a giant park – most of its streets are covered with large trees, many of them centuries old.

In fact, trees are so omnipresent – they are in offices, schools, houses – that many streets are named after them.

Right at the entrance to Tra Vinh Town, the provincial capital, is the four-hectare Ao Ba Om (Ba Om Pond) or Ao Vuong (square pond).

The pond is filled with lotuses and water lilies, and, thanks to a ban on fishing, has lots of fish and wild ducks. Old trees line its banks, making the spot cool the whole year through.

No one knows for sure about the pond’s origin. But there are many myths about it, one of them more accepted than the others.

It goes like this: In old times, when men and women still fought over who should take the initiative in proposing marriage, locals organized a contest between male and female teams to identify the winner: they had to dig a pond in one night, with the team completing first being the winner.

A woman named Ba Om tricked the men into drinking while her team kept digging and won the competition. Thus the pond was named after her.

Next to the pond is the Museum of Khmer People’s Culture built in 1997. It is one of only two of its kind in Vietnam; the other is in neighboring Soc Trang Province.

It has nearly 1,000 objects on display under three different sections.

The first shows various models of pagodas. It also has idols of goddesses like Kayno, a bird believed to be the personification of a popular Khmer goddess who finds mention in a number of legends.

The Khmers’s agricultural implements which are carved with birds, dragon heads, and other symbols, are displayed in the second room. The last one showcases traditional musical instruments, clothes, masks, and other things locals use in art performances.

According to the province’s website, the most precious objects in the museum are books written on palm leaves in Sanskrit, the ancient Indian language.

Ancient pagodas

Tra Vinh is particularly known for its more than 140 pagodas built in old Khmer architectural styles. Nodol, Hang (cave), and Ang pagodas are the most famous.

Ang (Angkorajaborey) Pagoda is next to the Museum of Khmer People’s Culture, in a complex also consisting of the museum and Ao Ba Om. Legend has it that the pagoda was built at the end of the 10th century, but historical records say it was built before 1715 and restored in 1842.

One of the oldest pagodas in Tra Vinh, Ang’s architecture is a mix of Khmer and Angkor cultures with details like Naga, a deity in the form of a large snake in Hinduism and Buddhism, statutes of humans with bird heads, sacred snakes, birds, and others.

Dozens of large paintings with Buddhist themes can also be found on the walls and roof of the pagoda’s main hall.

The pagoda, which is surrounded by a ditch, has a main Buddha idol that is 2.1 meters high besides 50 smaller statues made of either wood or stone.

Nodol Pagoda, some 40 kilometers to the south of Tra Vinh Town, is believed to have been built in 1677. It consists of many parts including a central chamber that has roofs curved like dragon tails and towers shaped like mountains. Sculptures of deities decorate the pagoda.

Locals often call it Co (stork) Pagoda because many species of the bird flock here.

The other must-visit pagoda is the Hang Pagoda situated some four kilometers to the south of Tra Vinh Town.

Its main gate faces the river bank and has large statues of Yak, a demon converted by Buddha and later assigned to serve as a protector. A smaller gate on the west looks like a cave, so locals often call it Hang (cave) Pagoda though its official name is Mong Ray (Kamponyixprdle).

The place is especially famous for its sculpture made by monks in the giant roots of century-old trees.

It is said that Hang’s monks were inspired after the pagoda was bombed by the US in 1968 during the Vietnam War. The bombing felled hundreds of old trees which the monks used for wood. They planned to collect their roots as well but later decided to sculpt them.

Other pagodas like Samrok Ek, Phuong, and Diep Thach are also good choices for visitors interested in Khmer culture, Buddhism, and Brahmin architecture.


To Hotel Guests, Sleep Is a Start


Hotel reviews on sites like Tripadvisor are useful for judging a specific property, to find out whether the elevators are slow or the location is grim. But ranking one brand against another or evaluating the industry as a whole requires a broader view — and new surveys indicate that although guest satisfaction is improving, travelers do have some complaints.

For its July issue, Consumer Reports asked more than 22,000 readers about their stays at 44 chains. It found scores for service, hotel upkeep and the check-in and checkout process had improved since 2006. Yet a quarter of respondents had at least one complaint, with inadequate beds, noise, outdated décor, cramped bathrooms and poor heating or air-conditioning dominating the list.

“The key thing about a hotel is how good a night’s sleep you were able to get,” said Tod Marks, a senior projects editor with Consumer Reports. “An uncomfortable bed is one of the things that always seems to stand out in terms of problems.”

The magazine rates hotel brands in four categories: luxury, upscale, moderate and budget. Ritz-Carlton led the luxury list, while Harrah’s beat its upscale competitors, helped by the free rooms given to many of its gambling guests. Wingate by Wyndham and Drury Inn and Suites effectively tied for top ranking among moderately priced brands.

At the budget end of the spectrum, Microtel Inn and Suites by Wyndham ranked well ahead of other economy chains, which often received low marks for bad lighting and a smoky smell.

“They are the only budget hotel that stood out,” Mr. Marks said. “All but Microtel were below average in everything but check-in and checkout.”

Rui Barros, senior vice president for Microtel, said an important factor in the brand’s success was that all of its 310 hotels were new buildings instead of conversions from other chains. “The magic formula for us is that there’s both consistency in product and consistency in service,” he said. “When you walk into one, they all look pretty much the same.”

For 10 years, Microtel has also been the highest-rated economy brand in J. D. Power & Associates’ hotel guest satisfaction study; the 2012 survey is due out this week. While there are differences between the two rankings — in part because Consumer Reports uses four price categories and J. D. Power uses seven — some brands score well on both lists.

Last year, Ritz-Carlton topped luxury hotels in the J. D. Power survey, and Drury Inn and Suites led the midscale limited-service group (moderately priced hotels that do not have a restaurant but may offer a breakfast buffet).

Stuart Greif, vice president for global travel at J. D. Power, said that there was a strong tie between guest satisfaction and consistency, which can be tough to achieve for a brand with hundreds of properties. “If sometimes the room is nice and other times it looks like it’s two decades too old, that really cuts into satisfaction,” he said.

According to J. D. Power’s research, noise and a bad Internet connection are two of the most common problems guests experience, but customers are more likely to call the front desk about a spotty Wi-Fi signal than a neighbor banging around next door.

A reliable — but free — Internet connection is especially important to business travelers these days. A recent joint survey by Frequent Business Traveler magazine and the online travel site FlyerTalk found that a high Internet charge, inaccessible or inadequate electrical outlets and a slow Internet connection were business travelers’ top three hotel pet peeves. Noise, difficult-to-adjust climate controls and poor water pressure or temperature followed technology complaints on the list.

Brian Cohen, a FlyerTalk member, said brand loyalty was especially strong among the frequent travelers who trade tips at the site, particularly about airline and hotel reward programs and how to maximize points and miles.

Although much of the buzz in the hotel industry over the last decade has been about independent or boutique hotels that offer something different to guests, travelers still value consistency.

“In my opinion, on a business trip you want that predictability,” Mr. Cohen said, mentioning that he often stays at Hilton Garden Inn and knows the brand’s signature pantry is open 24 hours, stocked with food, beverages and other items.

According to Bjorn Hanson, divisional dean at New York University’s Preston Robert Tisch Center for Hospitality, Tourism and Sports Management, some preferences vary by age. “A baby boomer will pick a tried-and-true brand,” he said. “A millennial staying three nights might try three different hotels.”

Mr. Hanson also noted that higher-priced brands tended to have more consistent ratings, while their lower-priced counterparts had more variability: at a budget chain, a great experience in Georgia might not be repeated in Maine.

As the hotel industry recovers from the recession, average rates are expected to increase 4 percent this summer to $107 a night, close to the peak of $108 in the summer of 2008, according to Smith Travel Research. Travelers’ expectations are likely to rise along with the prices they are paying for rooms.

“Consumers were patient, realizing that the hotel industry suffered in 2009 and 2010, and accepted the fact that there were capital investments that were deferred,” Mr. Hanson said. “The industry is starting to spend again, but patience has been lost faster than capital expenditures are increasing.”


American Airlines pilots in strike vote


The American Airlines pilots’ union has a called a strike vote over a threat to impose new contracts.

American Airlines is in Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in the US and seeking to restructure.

The Allied Pilots Association said it would ballot for a strike if the carrier uses the bankruptcy process to throw out existing agreements.

At the same time, pilots’ leaders met senior executives of US Airways to discuss support for a merger between the carriers.

American is a key business partner of British Airways, while US Airways has a code-share agreement with Virgin Atlantic.

American Airlines said a strike by pilots would be illegal. Courts have previously blocked attempts by airline workers to strike during Chapter 11 proceedings.

The carrier is seeking to cancel pilots’ contracts. A hearing before a federal judge in New York to decide whether it can do so is due on September 4.

A union spokesman said: “Our pilots are looking to resist any move to reject our contract.” However, he said the union continues to want to negotiate and a strike would only go ahead if legal.

Ground staff and cabin crew at American airlines have already accepted new contracts.

The union confirmed a meeting with US Airways chairman and chief executive Doug Parker and other executives took place this week to discuss “the potential for industry consolidation”.

American Airlines has previously dismissed merger overtures from US Airways, arguing it would emerge from bankruptcy protection on its own. But American’s creditors have now pressured it to explore options for a merger.

Willie Walsh, head of BA parent IAG, has indicated he may seek a stake in American.


Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur opens ahead of schedule

The Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur, the first Grand Hyatt property in Malaysia, has opened today ahead of schedule.

Business Traveller previously reported that the hotel planned to start operation in September, noting that it would be the first international luxury hotel to open in the Malaysian capital since The Westin in 2003.


The new hotel is located next to the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC) and within walking distance of the Petronas Twin Towers. It has 370 rooms and 42 suites, all with workspace, MP3 docks and internet. Rooms are larger than those currently in the market, with the size of the lead-in category, Grand rooms, starting from 47 sqm.

The hotel has over 3,300 sqm of meetings and events space in six different venues, with the Grand Salon and Grand Ballroom catering to gala events. All these venues employ curved design features to create a softer ambiance.

The hotel features Hyatt’s "residential-style" meeting concept, which offers meeting and event spaces that feel like the chic interior of a private home. The Grand Residence is able to cater exclusive small meetings or cocktail receptions with a capacity to host between 20 and 330 guests.

Dining options include Malaysian food at JP teres and top floor Thirty8, a wine bar, lounge and restaurant serving steaks, Chinese seafood and sashimi.

There is also the Essa Spa, together with 24-hour fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool, steam room and sauna, and whirlpool bath.


KLM heads back to Harare


KLM will start operating to Harare in Zimbabwe in October, tagging the city onto its existing Lusaka, Zambia flight.

Emirates returned to Harare earlier this year and tour operators Cox & Kings and ITC Classics have revealed plans to start taking tourists back to the country.

The flight will operate three times a week and is in addition to its existing offering with partner Kenya Airways via Nairobi, with 11 weekly flights via the Kenya capital.

“KLM sees great growth opportunities in Africa. This year we launched service to Luanda in Angola and Lusaka in Zambia, and in 2011 we began serving Kigali in Rwanda. This new addition to our network strengthens our position in Africa,” said Erik Varwijk, KLM managing director and executive vice president of Air France KLM International & The Netherlands.

Zimbabwe’s tourism industry suffered a huge slump following the ongoing political violence and economic turmoil following the 2002 general election.